Belaying for sport climbing

Belaying is the system that enables climbers to effectively hold a fall by means of a friction device and rope handling skills. Here's the pros and cons of various styles of belay devices for sport climbing.

Effective belaying is achieved through a combination of appropriate rope handling and correct use of a belay device alongside attentiveness. The belayer must watch the climber at all times in order to feed the rope at the appropriate pace and anticipate any falls.

Belay device

There are three categories of belay device:

Slick devices (e.g. ATC and Bug). These offer maximum ease of handling when paying out, taking in and abseiling i.e. they run very smoothly but that also means the belayer must react quickly to hold unexpected falls. Even experienced belayers have dropped their partners due to the fast running of such devices.

Gri gri

Grabbing devices (e.g. Sticht Plate and Betterbrake) These older style plates jam-up readily which makes paying out, taking in and abseiling less smooth, but they do have the advantage that falls are easier to hold.

Semi-locking devices (e.g. Grigri) This device was designed to take the uncertainty out of holding a falling lead climber. The device itself locks the rope when submitted to a rapid jerk (such as the leader falling) even if the belayer has let go. However, it is not a hands-off device and it does require considerable practice to master its use correctly, particularly when paying out the rope and when lowering the climber.

Climbing knots used in sport climbing

by Libby Peter

Climbers need only a handful of knots to get by, but having a selection at your disposal makes you more effective and efficient. The pros and cons of the most useful ones are assessed here including: Figure of eight, bowline, clove hitch, Italian hitch, Prusik knots ... and many more.

On sight sport climbing

by Steve McClure

An on-sight lead, where you flash the route at your first attempt, with no falls, or hangs, or information from other climbers, is the ultimate style of ascent. If you have even the slightest chance of getting the route, go for it. You only get one chance - so make sure all the odds are stacked in your favour.

Tips on falling off in sport climbing

by Tim Emmett

Tim Emmett provides some tips on what to look out for when falling off in sport climbing.

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Libby Peter

Libby is a highly qualified mountain leader with over 25 years experience, having worked as an instructor at Glenmore Lodge and Plas y Brenin and also having travelled the world seeking out the best climbs. She offers bespoke guiding, instruction and coaching sessions in climbing and mountaineering in her local area of North Wales - one of the best areas in the UK for outdoor sports.

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