With miles and miles of golden gritstone edges, the Peak District National Park is one of the finest places in the world for single pitch rock climbing. Local climbing guide Richard Goodey describes what's on offer.
A great place to learn to climb as well as a place to hone your technique and push your limits, the Peak District really does have it all. The hard gritstone rock has outstanding friction and offers many cracks for placing protection. Most of the climbing is close to the road and at low elevation, making it a readily accessible and popular destination throughout the year.
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Richard Goodey is the co-founder of Lost Earth Adventures, an adventure holiday and mountain sports outfit that leads expeditions and courses both in the UK and further afield in Asia. His passion for the outdoors began at a young age with his father taking him on holidays to the Alps mountaineering and skiing. At 17 he was lucky enough to be part of an expedition to the Pakistani Karakoram...
Probably the best V. Diff in the world. At the lower grades it’s every climbers right of passage and has to be done if your at Stanage. Incorporating a lot of various techniques, it is steep and committing and called anatomy for a reason. You use most of it! Wriggle and squirm your way to the top.
Choose from the left unconquerable or the right. The right hand side is a Joe Brown route put up in 1949 and goes at HVS 5a, a tough route up an exposed and overhanging buttress. Once you’ve conquered that do the left, a thuggish line with a tough and high but well protected crux that goes at E1 5b.
Long, techie, steep, exposed and run out – in a word, great!
Spend a summer's evening at Burbage, climb the fun and beautifully positioned Ash Tree Wall, S4a and head back to Hathersage for last orders at the Little John.
If you drive through Winnats Pass it is well worth the stop to climb
Matterhorn Ridge. As you can tell by the name it looks just awesome! A good little mountaineering route requiring a bit of experience in rope work but is a fairly easy VD. Makes for great photos and is a sure to put a smile on your face.
Best times to go:
The best times to go are between March to October, but a lot of people climb here all year round. You can beat the crowds in the winter, and the gritstone has way more friction in the colder temperatures.
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