Traditional climbing - techniques

Traditional climbing - techniques

Includes route planning/finding, equipment, knots, ropework, belaying, protection, top and bottom roping, leading and abseiling. For the more advanced you'll find advice on multipitch climbing, weight-saving, protection, ropework, aiding, ascending the rope and rescue.

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Route planning and finding for traditional climbing

Route planning and finding for traditional climbing

by Nigel Shepherd

Finding your chosen climb may, or may not, pose problems. A roadside crag with a few short routes will be much more straightforward than a large rambling cliff in a remote location.

Equipment for traditional climbing

Equipment for traditional climbing

by Libby Peter

Libby Peter explains the significance of everything that connects a climber to the belayer.

Climbing knots

Climbing knots

by Libby Peter

Climbers need only a handful of knots to get by, but by having a selection at your disposal you can be more effective and efficient. The pros and cons of the most useful ones are assessed here including: Figure of eight, bowline, clove hitch, Italian hitch, Prusik knots and more.

Ropework for traditional climbing - tying in

Ropework for traditional climbing - tying in

by Libby Peter

This article considers the advantages and disadvantages of each style of knot and explains how to use the rope loop you create.

Ropework for traditional climbing - tying in to anchors

Ropework for traditional climbing - tying in to anchors

by Libby Peter

Reduce the time you spend fiddling around trying to get the belay right and improve safety at the same time by adopting a simple and foolproof system.

Ropework in traditional climbing - the rope

Ropework in traditional climbing - the rope

by Libby Peter

A look at the various rope techniques for different climbing situations with a résumé of the main types of rope available and information on rope care.

Belaying in traditional climbing

Belaying in traditional climbing

by Libby Peter

Safe and effective belaying is crucial to a successful climbing system. There are various ways of achieving this including: Direct belaying Semi-direct belaying Indirect belaying

Protection in traditional climbing

Protection in traditional climbing

by Nigel Shepherd

What's the difference between active and passive protection, and when should you use nuts, hexes and cams?

Top and bottom roping in traditional climbing

Top and bottom roping in traditional climbing

by Libby Peter

If you don't want to lead you can climb using a top-rope or bottom-rope system. These are fairly straightforward to set up as long as you consider a few basics.

Leading on traditional climbs

Leading on traditional climbs

by Libby Peter

Most climbers have vivid memories of their first lead; it is an intense experience and one to be savoured. This article aims to prepare you for just that occasion by pointing out what you need to know, how to choose the first route and how to progress safely beyond it.

Abseiling and traditional climbs

Abseiling and traditional climbs

by Libby Peter

A look at basic safety needs when abseiling including: choice of abseil device, safety back-up, locking-off an abseil device, replacing worn-out slings on fixed abseils, and a mental checklist to run through before you go over the edge...

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - multipitch climbing

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - multipitch climbing

by Nigel Shepherd

Climbs of more than one pitch are called multipitch. Longer climbs pose different problems for the climbing team - in particular, speed is paramount to safety and success. This article covers basic ropework and stance organisational skills to increase climbing efficiency and maximise success.

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - weight saving

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - weight saving

by Andy Kirkpatrick

You can maximise your performance by minimising the weight of your climbing equipment - lighter loads make climbing much easier and more fun! Andy gives some tips on finding the lightest gear and leaves no item unscrutinised.

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - advanced protection

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - advanced protection

by Andy Kirkpatrick

There's a whole host of advanced protection pieces including conventional pegs such as lost arrows and knife blades, right through to copperheads, skyhooks and birdbeaks. Andy explains the uses of some of the more common pegs and gadgets.

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - advanced ropework

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - advanced ropework

by Nigel Shepherd

Nigel gives some tips about protection using a backrope on a traverse, an introduction to twin ropes and how to rig a Tyrolean Traverse.

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - aiding

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - aiding

by Andy Kirkpatrick

Aid climbing techniques allow the climber to journey to high places, unreachable by the free climber. Andy explains the basics of aid climbing, to give a rudimentary understanding of both leading and seconding an aid pitch.

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - ascending the rope

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - ascending the rope

by Andy Kirkpatrick

A skill that every climber should know. If things go wrong, such as an abseil rope becoming stuck or if you find yourself in space and unable to reach the rock after a fall, knowing how to climb back up your rope can mean the difference between a few minutes of hard work and a full-on rescue.

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - rescue

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - rescue

by Libby Peter

Master a few basic rescue techniques to save yourself and partner from some tricky situations.

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