Sport climbing - techniques — Leo Holding moving up to his next bolt

Sport climbing - techniques

What you need to know for this different form of climbing

There are key differences between 'trad' climbing and sport climbing.

Here, we have an in-depth guide to the range of techniques used in sport climbing, including equipment, knots, rope work and rope care, belaying, equipping the route, lowering off, stripping the route, falling off, on sight sport climbing, bolting, working the route and preparing for the redpoint.

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Equipment for sport climbing

by Libby Peter

Libby Peter explains the significance of everything that connects a climber to the belayer.
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Climbing knots used in sport climbing

by Libby Peter

Climbers need only a handful of knots to get by, but having a selection at your disposal makes you more effective and efficient. The pros and cons of the most useful ones are assessed here including: Figure of eight, bowline, clove hitch, Italian hitch, Prusik knots ... and many more.
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Knots used for tying in

by Libby Peter

This article runs through the pros and cons of the rewoven figure of eight and bowline with stopper and then explains how to use the rope loop you create.
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Belaying for sport climbing

by Libby Peter

Belaying is the system that enables climbers to effectively hold a fall by means of a friction device and rope handling skills. Here's the pros and cons of various styles of belay devices for sport climbing.
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Rope work and rope care for sport climbing

by Steve McClure

As a climber a rope is your lifeline. Steve McClure shows how a few simple steps can ensure a smooth flow of rope when climbing, as well as dramatically reducing its rate of wear.
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Equipping the route in sport climbing

by Steve McClure

Useful tips for on sighting and redpointing. It is important to correctly clip your quickdraw into the bolt, and then the rope into the draw, as every little bit helps when you are close to your limit. Equipping the route in the most efficient manner can make a big difference to the climb.
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Lowering off in sport climbing

by Steve McClure

Having reached the belay on a sport route success is yours. However, don't blow the descent. As any mountaineer knows you are only half way there when you reach the top. Despite lowering-off being perhaps the easiest thing you will do all day, there are still a few useful things to know...
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Stripping the route in sport climbing

by Steve McClure

Removing the quickdraws, or 'stripping' a route can often be as difficult as the climbing itself, particularly on overhanging rock. A few little tricks can make this process much easier...
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Sport climbing and rest

by Steve McClure

Although resting doesn't actually move you up the rock it does have a great influence on your overall chances of success. There are three principal categories of resting for sport climbing: Resting on route, recovering between attempts at a redpoint or on-sight and rest days.
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Tips on falling off in sport climbing

by Tim Emmett

Tim Emmett provides some tips on what to look out for when falling off in sport climbing.
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Styles of ascent in sport climbing

by Steve McClure

On-sight, flash, beta flash, redpoint - what does it all mean? Steve explains.
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On sight sport climbing

by Steve McClure

An on-sight lead, where you flash the route at your first attempt, with no falls, or hangs, or information from other climbers, is the ultimate style of ascent. If you have even the slightest chance of getting the route, go for it. You only get one chance - so make sure all the odds are stacked in your favour.
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Bolting for sport climbing

by Pete Oxley

It must be stressed that taking the decision to attach bolts into the rock for climbing places a great responsibility on the individual or group that carries it out - both on a moral level and, potentially, on a legal level too.
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Working the route in sport climbing

by Steve McClure

Practice makes perfect! Today's hardest routes have only been climbed after extensive practice of the individual moves. The route becomes a purely gymnastic challenge like the parallel bars or the rings. To many this is the ultimate style of climbing where the mind and body can be pushed to the absolute limit.
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Preparing for the redpoint in sport climbing

by Steve McClure

You need to stack the odds in your favour for a successful redpoint. Steve has some tips.