Climbing without ropes or protection - known as free soloing - is perhaps the most dangerous climbing discipline. Leo comes down to earth with the bare facts.
Climbing styles in traditional climbing - soloing
Free soloing is perhaps the ultimate form of expression in climbing. With no ropes, no heavy equipment, and no margin for error, soloing provides a sensation of oneness with the rock and ease within oneself. It is, for many, unjustifiably dangerous and for some, highly addictive.
Although many climbers say that they only solo when they are in absolute control and well within their capabilities, the truth is that there are factors beyond their control determining their fate. The tiniest slip, a loose hold, or a drop of rain is all it takes. The soloist is constantly faced with the stark reality that the smallest of errors may result in death.
The soloist is constantly faced with the stark reality that the smallest of errors may result in death
But it is this stark reality that creates addictive attraction. The blatant jeopardy involved evokes feelings of command and mastery over life. Few sports can compete with the intensity of emotion. Who's to say how an Olympic gold medal can compare with a self-imposed near death experience?
The High
Following a particularly rewarding solo, the climber feels like a magician, on a higher plane of consciousness to ordinary man. The closer the scrape with death, the more intense the relief of survival. And herein lies the insidious horror of this courtship with doom. A narrow escape is too often followed by an eagerness to take things further, to attain the same high.
Why do it
Rationalising such an inherently dangerous pursuit is not possible. To risk your life to climb a certain piece of rock in a certain style is simply madness and incredibly selfish.
I leave you with the master's opinion, a blunt instruction from Joe Brown, 'Don't solo.'
Reality
People die soloing. Friends of mine have died soloing.
Survival guidelines
If you insist on experimenting with this lethally rewarding game, follow these few simple guidelines and you may live longer.
- Never solo a route just because somebody else did - peer pressure kills.
- Question your motivation. If you are doing this for anyone other than yourself, don't.
- If you have any doubt about it, forget it.
- Never be too proud to request a rescue.
Leo Houdling
Leo is one of the best climbers in the world, specialising in free climbing and is at the cutting edge of exploratory adventure. Well-known for his appearance on BBC's Top Gear, he has his own show 'Take Me To The Edge' and has starred in films 'The Wildest Dream' and 'The Asgard Project'. Leo is an inspiration to audiences around the world, especially the next generation of climbers.
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