Route planning and finding for traditional climbing

Finding your chosen climb may, or may not, pose problems. A roadside crag with a few short routes will be much more straightforward than a large rambling cliff in a remote location.

Plan your day, including the approach, descent and walk out. Long and complex climbs can present route-finding difficulties when you're actually on the route, so spend some time sorting out where the line goes as you approach the cliff. Look for key features on the cliff that you know you will be able to identify when on the rock.

You'll need to make some kind of judgement as to how long the actual climb will take. This is usually a combination of technical difficulty, your ability to climb at that grade and how efficiently you manage stances and belay changeovers. The closer the grade is to the limit of your ability the slower the whole procedure will be.

Sea cliff climbing often requires an abseil approach. Make sure that you are in the right place and that you tie a knot in the end of the rope.

Short climbs are great for an evening out or if you're looking for lots of mileage under your belt and can manage several in a day. Guidebooks give little indication of how much time a climb will take but they do usually tell you how long it takes to reach the crag. Take note of your average time to do particular grades of climbs and use this as a yardstick for longer climbs and future days out. And remember if you think there is the slightest chance you might finish in the dark - take a torch!

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - advanced protection

by Andy Kirkpatrick

There's a whole host of advanced protection pieces including conventional pegs such as lost arrows and knife blades, right through to copperheads, skyhooks and birdbeaks. Andy explains the uses of some of the more common pegs and gadgets.

Protection in traditional climbing

by Nigel Shepherd

What's the difference between active and passive protection, and when should you use nuts, hexes and cams?

Advanced techniques in traditional climbing - multipitch climbing

by Nigel Shepherd

Climbs of more than one pitch are called multipitch. Longer climbs pose different problems for the climbing team - in particular, speed is paramount to safety and success. This article covers basic ropework and stance organisational skills to increase climbing efficiency and maximise success.

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Nigel Shepherd

Nigel has been an International Mountain Guide since 1979, is author of several climbing books and also works as a photographer. He has climbed and guided in many mountain areas of the world and uses his 30+ years experience to inspire and develop other climbers, skiiers and trekkers.

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